Modern fashion has now blurred the lines on who wears a suit. Ladies and gents have seen its utmost potential, both for work and play, and even for everyday wear. Trends aside, how does one choose a great fitting suit? Below, we talk with Carin Aguas, co-founder of Masanting Sasteria, a house dedicated to bespoke tailoring.
As with any piece of clothing we buy, investing in a suit also calls for intent Why do you need one—is it for a wedding, casual wear, business? This will "narrow down he different elements that goes in the suit," Carin says. But he recommends that a notch-lapel, single-breasted, tow-buttoned suit is the most versatile kind of suit you can get.
Most suits are made out of wool. The again, if you intend to wear it often in a tropical country like ours, it's better to opt for light fabrics. Carin suggests linen, linen-blend, or cotton.
"Color-wise, the farther one deviates from the usual navy and charcoal gray, the less formal the suit becomes," she shares. This also applies on prints. The bolder, louder, and more prominent the patterns are, the more casual it becomes.
4. Fit, silhouette, cut
This trio is responsible for your suit's overall aesthetic. If you want to appear taller and slimmer, ask your tailor to accentuate the shoulders and cinch the waist better. "Tightness or looseness, traditional or contemporary (i.e., slim), and structured (padded) or soft (minimal padding) are also considerations that affect fit and silhouette," Carin adds.
5. Add-ons: Vest
For the gents, there is an on-going debate on whether one needs a vest or not when wearing a suit. Carin sums its purpose in two points: to add warmth and for aesthetic. But it all boils down to your preference and occasion you'll need it for.
6. Bespoke vs. Bought-and-Altered
Both have merits. Carin lists them below:
"Buying a suit then having it altered: This option gives you speed if you need it right away. Alterations are limited, however."
"Bespoke: Since it is made specifically for the person, it will be the most comfortable piece of clothing one can have. These are made with a lot of thought in mind and tend to be a better investment as they will last you a long time."
7. FAQs: Ask your tailor
Newbies can refer to these three questions you can ask when visiting a tailor for the first time:
Can I see samples and images of your house style?
"Actual samples and images of them being worn work as your visual benchmark of any similarities or deviations you're aiming for," Carin says. Essentially, you can start with a peg the tailor has already made and employ any customization from there.
How can you help achieve the visual effect I'm aiming for?
Communication and good rapport with the tailor will help you in getting the suit of your dreams. Both of you have to be on the same page.
What fabric and construction options do I have in achieving the visual effect for my purpose?
Carin says this is when you discuss the construction details. You usually start with fabric swatches, moving on to color, and then patterns.