Simone Rocha Modernizes Masculinity for Her First-Ever Menswear Show

For the 110th edition of Pitti Uomo—a global platform that showcases men's clothing and accessories twice a year in Florence, there was a special guest designer who made a historical debut for her namesake label: Simone Rocha.

Although she started incorporating menswear into her collections in 2022, it was not until the Spring/Summer 2027 season that Simone finally did a full-blown menswear collection.

Taking place at the Teatro della Pergola, one of Italy's oldest opera houses, the show featured 38 looks that collectively highlighted Simone's romantic and relaxed take on masculinity.

For the first look, Simone chose a traditional evening suit that was accessorized with a bouquet of flowers held by the model. It was a juxtaposition that set the tone for the rest of the collection—classic menswear pieces injected with feminine ease and cheeky innocence.

As the collection progressed, there was an element of understated elegance that was evidenced by the dominant color palette of blacks, whites, and neutrals. Offering pops of color were red and purple, which were seen on intentional placements of gingham and the flowers, respectively.

The expected touches of romance were felt on the pearl embroideries and embellishments, silk-satin bows, frills, and broderie anglaise. Despite the numerous feminine nods, the collection was not a forced statement of blurring the lines of menswear. Rather, it was a reminder that both can coexist, with one contextually leading the other.

Closing the show was the most obvious marriage of masculinity and femininity—a single-breasted backless jacket that was worn over a tunic-apron in silk organza with trapped lace edgings. If this is an indication of where Simone's menswear is headed, then we are all on board.