How Pope Francis Rewrote Tradition with His Simple Sense of Style

Pope Francis, a steadfast advocate for the marginalized who reshaped the Catholic Church with conviction and compassion, passed away on April 21 at the age of 88. 

According to CNN, the pope died of a stroke and heart failure on Easter Monday, just a day after presiding over Holy Week celebrations that brought comfort to many. Despite a recent history of severe health challenges, including pneumonia and respiratory failure, the pontiff had appeared publicly multiple times during Holy Week, most recently at the Easter Sunday Mass at St. Peter’s Basilica.

The Vatican confirmed that Francis passed at his residence at Casa Santa Marta, a reflection of the modest lifestyle he chose from the beginning of his papacy in 2013. As his legacy is remembered for theological reform and social justice, it also lives on in a quieter yet equally symbolic way: through the simplicity of his wardrobe. From the papal ring to the soles of his shoes, Pope Francis redefined papal fashion by stripping it down to its essence.

One of Francis' earliest decisions as pope was to set aside the ceremonial mozetta—a red velvet cape trimmed with ermine—typically worn by popes during public appearances. Instead, he chose to appear in the same austere white cassock, a bishop's simar, for all occasions, whether blessing crowds from the loggia or eating breakfast, according to the Catholic Herald. His cassocks, tailored by Lorenzo Gammarelli, were made from natural wool in varying weights for the seasons.

As reported by WWD, the pope specifically requested a natural cream ivory tone and recycled garments whenever possible. His sash notably lacked the customary papal coat of arms—another break from tradition.

Instead of commissioning a lavish new ring, Pope Francis chose a silver one made from an old wax mold originally designed for Pope Paul VI, but never made. The ring, newly cast but steeped in history, features a relief of St. Peter holding the keys to heaven—symbolizing the pope’s role as a “fisher of men.” 

Perhaps nothing signaled Pope Francis’ departure from his predecessors more clearly than his shoes. Gone were the red Prada loafers favored by Benedict XVI. Instead, Francis wore unadorned black leather shoes made by longtime friend and shoemaker Carlos Samaria in Buenos Aires. According to Catholic News Agency, the pope once phoned Carlos personally to request repairs, insisting, “No red shoes, make them black like usual.”

These shoes were described by Carlos as clog-like, with smooth toes, no decoration, and laces. “He doesn't want new shoes, only that I fix his old ones,” Carlos said, though he planned to have a simple new pair ready for when the pope would allow a visit.

In an age where luxury watches are synonymous with status, Francis remained a man of the people—right down to his timepiece. According to Religion Unplugged, the pontiff wore a Casio MQ24-7B2, an analog model retailing for just $8 (approx. P450). Basic in function and form, the Casio has no date window, no backlight, and a resin strap. It is, quite literally, the most basic model Casio offers.

Casio confirmed that the watch was not a gift and that no one from the Vatican had contacted them. It was presumably bought like any other: by the pope, for the pope. It was also noted that Francis owned another watch—a basic black Swatch with a white dial, reportedly priced at around $56 (approx. P3,000), which was later auctioned for charity. When the strap on the Swatch eventually broke, Francis reportedly hesitated to replace the watch itself, preferring instead to simply fix the strap. According to WWD, he only agreed to a new one after being reassured that the full replacement wouldn't cost more than the band.