Philippine Fashion Week’s Day 4 Luxewear show, presented by Magnum, was off to a bright start: Anthony Ramirez’s collection consisted of a tightly-edited roster of fun, primary-colored eveningwear which the designer took to revving up via his characteristic draping and fabric manipulations. ROYGBIV creations flounced down the runway, the combo of sharp, sunny shades with origami pleating providing a visual refresher, and ended in dramatic black floor-sweepers which still stayed true to the designer’s architectural leanings.
FOLD OVER. Arm cutouts and mullet bustling give us a glimpse of the new sexy.
Harley Ruedas on the other hand explored the more lounge-glam side of luxewear, sticking to blooming, dramatic florals in black, white, and red. His silk-screened hibiscuses went against a backdrop of sweeping black maxidresses, or else found a more cocktail-easy option in ruffled V-neck tiers and empire-cut frocks fitting for those holiday beach weddings.
FESTIVE AND FUN. Floral creations make way for a strong, red show-ender.
After the wedding comes the afterparty, and where Julius Tarog’s edgy, club kid collection comes in—black leather, sheer fabric, chunky platforms, asymmetric pullovers, even anti-heroine tailoring provided a dash of noir to usual eveningwear fare. Even his collection ender, a leather-trimmed black blazer atop a voluminized gray maxi, had touches of the subversive: cutouts at the elbows and completely sheer innerwear ensure the party never gets boring.
ALL THE SINGLE LADIES. Turn heads at your best friend's wedding in a creation like this.
Melvin Lachica’s signature laser-cut appliqués keep things consistent for the designer, who administered them in suede and leather onto a desert-hued collection. Olive, khaki, coral, and sandy silks were grounded by his intricate accents, which exoticized the overall looks and brought them into princessy terrains via chest, bodice, and harness placements.
SHOW STOPPING. Equal parts revealing and conservative, the leather corset/harness edges up a filmy gown.
Peter Lim reinforced billowing chiffon—dominant in his pieces—with structured shapes and strategic fabric splicing. Unusual shapes also gave texture to the otherwise flimsy fabric, with mullet skirts over pants, bell-sleeved blazers, and exaggerated turtlenecks. A yin-yang take on a cap-sleeved ballgown ended his show, the glam play on graphic providing a bit of Hepburn to the mix.
WITH SUGAR, PLEASE. Peter Lim's dual-hued gown is both dramatic and feminine.
Mesh panelling was the name of the game at Roel Rosal, the designer using lace to get his point across for Holiday 2013: that intimations of skin are sexier than the real thing. Starting things out were creations in an unusual palette of spring greens and powder pink, which rounded out to dark, shimmery, earth-toned dresses, which played with both color-blocking and asymmetry.
SHAPE SHIFT. If you're sexy and you know it, a figure-flaunting Roel Rosal turns heads for the holidays.
Roland Lirio Holiday 2013 was chock-full of drama: Leather tassels, fishnets, fascinators, and the occasional cape brought a tinge of Evita Peron. Black lacy tops emphasized that the fabric really was this 2013’s holiday staple; studs juxtapose with rococo insignias, showing the designer’s old-meets-new point of view.
UP IN ARMS. Leather gloves and a lace bodice get an edgy update with some studs.
Festive meets cheeky—Ronaldo Arnaldo made perfect use of his veteran eye with his Holiday 2013 collection, which flawlessly mixed classic design silhouettes with a quirky twist. The designer’s rattan-print creations turned the New Year’s Eve staple, the polka-dot, on its head and gave it a modern Filipiniana bent; modern cuts, like a croptop-maxi pairing, keep things from being stuffy as well. And lilac and pink for eveningwear? Easy, breezy, beautiful.
SIT UP. Rattan-print dresses do a trompe l'oeil from afar and delight up close.
Sidney Perez Sio had his way with gray with his Holiday 2013 collection that, surprisingly, bridged the contrasting elements of nomadic and futuristic into an extremely direct point of view. Mint mermaid hair extensions and driftwood neckpieces were the designer’s only overindulgences to his sweeping, starkly minimalist pieces (all—and we mean all—in shark gray), which had austerity as their main advantage. Shapes, belting, and layers added interest as well, ensuring a wearable mix of simplicity and directionalism.
GIRLS OF THE HOOD. Relaxed, snooded sheaths were a welcome break from the more restrictive creations for Holiday 2013.
Simon Ariel Vasquez’s cocktail-centered Holiday 2013 looks had, as their main point of interest, ornate patches of embroidery on both his menswear and womenswear. Lime-green detailing popped against black satin dinner jackets, and silvery-gray complemented the whites and blacks. Go-to shapes were arrested by sudden pops of color via piled-on beaded jewelry too—homage to the party days ahead.
V FOR VA VA VOOM. Simon Ariel Vasquez keeps his plunging necklines formal.
The gold-dripping faerie nymphs at Tina Daniac’s show may not have stepped out to dubstep in the dark ages, but the jarring beats provided a fitting contrast to her collection, which purposefully combined the ethereal with some subversive decadence. Botticelli-inspired pieces referenced some medieval romance through the designer’s use of flouncy chiffon and ballerina lace, and gold-leaf embellishments—rendered in both micromini and Grecian interpretations—showed the audience what modern-day goddesses wear when they want to part a room.
PRETTY AS A PICTURE. Bodycon lace and pencil cuts put the focus on medieval-age romance.
Vania Romoff never at once forgot her credo of luxe, broad-stroked sexy with Holiday 2013, proving once again why the PEFTA alum is well-deserving of her reputation as “the designer who designs for women.” Sassing up a usually more reserved set was a croptop opener, the addition of bell sleeves keeping things trendy yet consistent with her glamorously restrained aesthetic. A few more of her French-girl signatures: Tuxedo maxijackets over trousers, opera gloves with white pants (!), and a drapey, dark emerald stunner, which, we’re predicting, is now on every cool girl’s formalwear wishlist.
X MARKS THE SPOT. Short but not-so-sweet, her croptop still stays true to her aesthetic.
With his Bowie-meets-Blade Runner collection, Veejay Floresca managed the near-impossible: Make the craziest of crazy ’80s detailing desirable again. Who knew rainbow paillettes would find an exciting, willing cohort in cobalt-blue wool and confetti-print chiffon? Or that raspberry velour tulip skirts were the best foil for silver jersey? The forward-thinking designer did, as his bold melanges of oversized gray coat jackets and punky textures took us to where we all wanted to be come the holidays: somewhere fun.
GRAY MATTERS. Oversized blazers over shimmering silver pants get the party started.
Magnum’s Katutubo half of the show was opened by Delby Bragais, whose Cordillera-weave detailing offset a lush evening color combo of red, black, and gray. Filipino tribal prints adorned mens button-downs, women’s cap sleeves, and sweetheart-and-black-fringed dresses, with sexy flourishes such as a thigh-slit maxiskirt guaranteeing buzz even from the print-shy.
TEXTURE PLAY. Color and fringe provide points of interest to Delby Bragais' frocks.
Jaki Peñalosa’s sleek piña overlays brought much-needed sex appeal back to the indigenous fabric—models walked down the runway clad in pretty tent dresses, bias-cut mullet gowns, ruched maxis, and even a clever, buttoned-down, cowl-necked version of a barong dress. Decorative cream-on-black embroidery and wooden accessories provided touches of Pinoy heritage chic.
UP TO THE NECK. Button-down barong dresses are straightforwardly chic.
Gerry Katigbak’s “Pinoy Vampire” menswear barong pieces gave references of Eastern palace-guard ornamentalia a gothic turn. Peacock designs, jewel-toned piña, and color-blocking rechristened the barong as a creative canvass, and paired with jodhpurs and gypsy slippers à la Gerry Katigbak’s models, have us considering the traditional Pinoy formalwear staple in a brand new light.
GOING FOR COLOR. Bright, blocky accents featured heavily in Gerry's collection.
EsAc by Roland Mendoza Holiday 2013 featured piña separates freshened up via crisp, boxy constructions. Paired with cozy Fall staples like cotton pullovers, wool bottoms, and suede boots, the pieces received seamless incorporation—and with the addition of black piping, gave them a more hip, everyday flavor. Injecting some color into the EsAc offerings were the show-closers of AudieAE too, as red Breakfast at Tiffany’s dresses stood out with the addition of piña overlay and embroidery.
FLOUNCY, FLOUNCY. The croptop gets a pretty yet thoughtful upgrade.
SEEING RED. Details matched the piña-laden creations at AudieAE.
See the Holiday 2013 collections of Anthony Ramirez, Harley Ruedas, Julius Tarog, Melvin Lachica, Peter Lim, Roel Rosal, Ronaldo Arnaldo, Sidney Perez Sio, Simon Ariel Vasquez, Tina Daniac, Vania Romoff, Veejay Floresca, Delby Bragais, Jaki Peñalosa, Gerry Katigbak, and EsAc by Ronald Mendoza and AudieAE.