More Gianni, Less Donatella: Dario Vitale Debuts His First Collection for Versace

As expected, this season in fashion has been a revolutionary one so far. After all, Spring 2026 marks the debut collections for so many designers and their new fashion houses. Among the players in fashion's most recent round of musical chairs, Dario Vitale arguably has the biggest shoes to fill.

Succeeding Donatella Versace after almost three decades, Dario holds the distinction of being the first creative director of Versace outside the family. Taking the lead of the Italian luxury fashion house, he is armed with stints at Dsquared2, Bottega Veneta, and Miu Miu.

Now, having his vision of the Versace man and woman walk down the runway (and the stairs), how did Dario's first collection fare?

At first glance, one could instantly call out Dario's deviation from the Versace look Donatella has engineered so successfully. There was a seemingly shift from crude to subtle. Sex suddenly stepped back; foreplay took over. Medusa—the house's emblem—was tamed.

Upon closer inspection, however, it is evident that Dario really planned such a transition. Why? All 75 looks from his inaugural collection were a dedication to Gianni and the Versace he created. They were also a declaration of the enduring strength of the eighties and nineties.

Dario's debut collection felt like a time capsule—the reference to the Spring 1991 pop art dresses, the fanny pack, the color blocking, the unzipped pants, the metals, and so much more. Simultaneously, it signaled a refreshing, gritty, and grounded Versace.

Isn't that exciting? Isn't that what Dario was supposed to do—pay homage without compromising individuality and give people something to talk about? Of course, it all feels suggestive for now, but it's also thrilling to anticipate what he will do next. This is all still foreplay anyway.