This season, Wilbur Lang was out to prove not only his versatility as a designer, but also his ability to build a bridge between two unrelated, albeit oddly complementary muses. He challenged himself to make feminine pieces à la Katharine Hepburn (think The Philadelphia Story, Little Woman, Bringing Up Baby, and Dragon Seed), but with a dark, witchy twist. Imagine the sartorial women of the '30s, who lived in pantsuits and capes or long bell sleeves, banding together to build a coven. Now take that idea and walk it down the runway—there's no way you wouldn't want to sign up, too.
Although largely a collection of dresses, Wlibur's take on a pantsuit deserves props for bringing old and new together. The centerpiece remained an impeccably tailored monochrome suit, but it rested on top of a bell-sleeved top with a pussy bow detail at the neckline—androgynous womenswear, a real specialty of his. One was cinched at the waist by a chain belt bag that swung almost menacingly as the model walked with her unmoving bedhead. If only we could show up to work like this every day.
That said, as Wilbur has never been one to overdo the embellishments, the details on his gowns did all the talking. "I mostly rely [on] good fabrics and silhouettes to make an impact. I'm also drawn to tailoring," he explains—and impact he made. Two black gowns were the anti-LBDs you'd want in your closet for when you want all eyes on you—ruffled bell sleeves for a chic cover-up, 'natch.
Overall, Wilbur has yet again proven why we should watch out for his clothes every season. He consistently pours a poetic darkness to the silhouettes we already know and love, because what is fashion without a little witchy kick?
See the full collection below:
Produced by Yanna Lopez and Steph Sison
Photographed by Miguel Alomajan