Jessica Soho’s Custom Barong Is a Love Letter to the University of the Philippines

She wore a contemporary barong by Daryl Maat embroidered with iconic UP symbols.

Published on Jul 10, 2025

Though still widely considered a cornerstone of Filipino formalwear, the barong has quietly evolved in recent years. A new wave of designers has reimagined the garment beyond its traditional gendered and stylistic codes. No longer limited to white-on-white embroidery, Chinese collars, or strictly masculine silhouettes, today’s barong embraces a broader aesthetic range, featuring vibrant palettes, contemporary tailoring, and personal narratives stitched into every thread.

Among those leading this movement is Daryl Maat, the designer best known for his Pad Paper barongs—a playful yet mindful reinterpretation of the classic piece. Marked by school-inspired motifs and a distinct visual wit, the Pad Paper barong has become a signature of Daryl’s design language.

“I wanted to contribute to the movement that reimagines the barong for contemporary wear,” he told Preview in an April 2024 interview. “The Pad Paper barong is a result of that vision—a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to our cultural roots while adapting to the dynamic lifestyle of today.”

Daryl’s contemporary barongs have since attracted a growing list of style and cultural figures, including Maine Mendoza, Marian Rivera, and Eugene Domingo. Most recently, veteran journalist Jessica Soho joined that roster, wearing a custom UP-themed Pad Paper barong as she delivered the commencement address at the 2025 graduation ceremony of the University of the Philippines Diliman.

In this Preview exclusive, Daryl Maat unpacks the creative process and layered symbolism behind Jessica Soho’s custom look. Keep reading.

Daryl Maat's custom pad paper barong for Jessica Soho

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Daryl Maat Explains the Concept Behind Jessica Soho’s Custom “Pad Paper” Barong

As Daryl recalls, the collaboration began when stylist Aj Alberto approached him to create a bespoke piece for the occasion. “Ms. Jessica wants a barong that has iconic UP symbols,” he shares. “She suggested elements that can be adorned on the barong, like the sunflower, the University Seal, the oblation, the school’s motto, and the words ‘Kung hindi ngayon, kailan? Kung hindi tayo, sino?’”

For those unfamiliar, the latter phrase was first popularized in 1975 by Abraham “Ditto” Sarmiento, then editor-in-chief of the Philippine Collegian, during the height of the Marcos dictatorship. Decades later, it was memorably echoed by Vilma Santos’ character in the 1984 film Sister Stella L.

Drawing from this symbolic wishlist, Daryl crafted a design that honored the university’s visual identity while remaining faithful to his own aesthetic. “We decided to do a design of a field of sunflowers with the iconic UP Administration building (Quezon Hall) at the back, and an airplane that carries the slogan,” he explains.

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PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM/KM_JESSICA_SOHO

To bring the vision to life, Daryl turned to his tried-and-true construction process. “We use cocoon fabric as the base of the barong,” he explains. “We machine stitch the pad paper lines and hand embroidered the iconic symbols.”

All in all, it took Daryl and his team 144 hours to complete the custom piece.

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PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM/DARYLMAAT

While playful graphics and bold hues are central to Daryl’s design DNA, the barong for Soho also served as a storytelling canvas. “This custom barong for Ms. Jessica Soho is a perfect example of the marriage between my design ethos and the craft of barong making,” he explains.

Daryl continues: “We make custom Filipinianas fit to the specification of the wearer. We are not only making a custom piece, [but] we are also making a piece of their story where we embroidered memories into their own personal barong.”

Pau is Preview’s go-to fashion girl. On most days, you’ll find her with headphones on, coffee in hand, and likely dressed in an oversized blazer and floor-grazing jeans.