November 4, 2008
Makati Shangri-La Hotel
When Joey Samson said he wanted to go BEYOND, the theme of his recent collection for the Fashion Watch series, he must have been going through some existential thought process of sorts. For the designer, it was “an attempt to move further, to go beyond trends, beyond what I think I'm capable of doing, beyond what everyone thinks is wearable, beyond what the eyes can see.”
What he succeeded in doing was to further entrench himself as the go-to guy for the extra-ordinary, impeccably tailored silhouette. The androgyny that has come out so clearly in past collections resonated stronger—his women's wear taking a cue from the men, and his men's line developing a female's detail-oriented eccentricities, all the while maintaining that almost sinister air of masculinity he does so well.
Working with his favored light-weight wools, crisp white cottons, and weighty twills, Joey also returned to his original somber colors asserting that, “you can't really go beyond what you think is achievable without going back to your roots.”
Coats took center stage—worn as a coat; coat as a dress; coat cropped to a top; coat worn by a man; and coat on a woman. Dresses highlighted the figure 40s style with corsets, narrow skirts, and wasp waists giving a slim yet lady-like shape. They took on a more urban personality, as opposed to being ultra-feminine, as scultpured cut-outs and arched panels called to mind a more architectural groove.
He played all the more with his mens line, boasting the many transformations of a black-buttoned tux shirt and challenging males with calf-hugging jodhpurs and shorter than the usual (but not 70s reminiscent) shorts.
In his effort to move further, Joey indulged in remarkably interesting anatomical elements, which were all about “seeing beauty beyond the surface.” A web-like weave of strings was made to resemble the spine and the skeleton, making for an eerily sophisticated dress. With regards to those bits of the dress that went off-pattern, Joey points out, “that's where I believe I have achieved the balance.” Sleek and slim proportions syndicated with bumps, distortion, dislocations, and deformities create the edge and balance.
To view his collection, click on.
-Isha Andaya and Nikki Santiago
November 4, 2008