Once again, Ivarluski Aseron had women watching each outfit with lust in their eyes and a hand reaching for their checkbooks by the end of the show.
“Papillon,” he told us coyly, using the French word for butterfly to define the inspiration for his Holiday 2011 collection. He didn’t want to be too literal in his interpretation but you will notice a bit of draping drama at the back of many garments. Not to say it’s the usual goddess-y sort. In his Fashion Watch Prelude interview, he revealed that he had experimented with patterns to create the wing-like protrusions that flow out of the backs of jackets and languid blouses.
He used the book leaf technique—rectangular pieces of cloth clustered together to resemble book leaves—to create that flutter of fabric (like wings, perhaps) across dresses and softened structured tops. You’ll see his penchant for linear designs in the symmetry of the rows as they form patterns and reveal paths of skin, behind the sheer base fabric.
But what were received especially well by the fashion crowd were the leather pieces that played the weighted foil to the lightness of everything else. “I used real leather not faux,” he stated, explaining how he even sent swatches of his fabrics to the tannery in order to have them match the color of the leather to the taupe, magenta, and teal palette he was working with. Whether shorts, a vest, or a cropped jacket, the right hues made it easy to forget Manila’s heat (it was raining that day) long enough to imagine wearing it. Mind you, jacket sleeves were a roomy puff that ended at the elbow, shorts were teeny save for a handsome knee-length pair, and a top was made light by a completely sheer back; easy enough to pull off during the cooler months.
The man has mastered the art of making even the most risqué silhouettes and techniques tasteful. While this collection gave nods to street style and sport—note the subtly athletic color blocking or the hipster mix of soft and tough—it still possessed that sexy yet lady-like finesse he does so well.
Click on the photo gallery to see Ivarluski Aseron’s complete Fashion Watch 2011 collection.