Why Filipino Designer Joseph Bagasao Isn't Chasing Novelty

Since founding BAGASÁO, the Manila-based designer has approached each collection as part of an evolving body of work. His latest collection continues that philosophy, arriving in time for the brand's first Paris showroom presentation with Tora-Tora, held from June 24 to 28.

Asked about the presentation, Joseph described the milestone as less about international recognition than it was about reaffirming a belief he has held since launching the brand: that clothing should become part of the lives of the people who wear it.

That way of thinking influences each aspect of the design process, from fabric selection and tailoring to the emotional connection each garment develops over years of wear. Instead of designing for a single season, the Preview BFFD 2024 honoree hopes his work becomes something people continue returning to.

“We care deeply about fit, fabrication, and how a garment makes someone feel,” he says. “More than anything, we hope our work stays with people.”

Titled "We Were Once Young, But Here We Are," the new collection explores memory as a construct—not as something confined to the past, but as something people continue to carry with them as they move through life.

Following the spirited energy of Collection No. 7, this latest lineup settles into softer silhouettes, gentler fabrics, and a quieter palette.

For Joseph, the collection reflects what it means to grow older without losing sight of who you once were. It is about embracing where life has led while still recognizing traces of your younger self—a sentiment that has, in many ways, become the guiding principle behind BAGASÁO's evolution over the years.

“I don't think of our collections as separate stories,” he explains. “They're chapters of a conversation.”

Rather than pursuing novelty for its own sake, Joseph approaches each collection as an opportunity to further explore the materiality of his work. Familiar silhouettes are refined, while construction becomes increasingly precise.

“Each season allows us to refine what came before,” he says. “Rather than chasing novelty, we're interested in building a body of work that grows with the people who wear it.”

BAGASÁO's recent showroom presentation in Paris can be traced back to an introduction in Milan.

Following last year's inaugural FASHIONPhilippines Milan—an initiative by CITEM, LIT Fashion Consultancy, the Philippine Textile Research Institute (PTRI), and the Philippine Fashion Coalition—the brand presented its work at Fondazione Sozzani. There, conversations with buyers, editors, and the team behind Tora-Tora eventually led to an invitation to present in the Paris showroom.

“It still feels surreal,” Joseph admits. “I didn't expect it to happen this soon, but at the same time, it has always been part of the dream.”

Joseph has long believed that a homegrown label belongs on the global stage.

“We've spent years building the brand on the belief that work made in Manila deserves to stand alongside brands from anywhere else,” he reflects.

Initially, Joseph was hesitant to speak publicly about the milestone. A mentor, however, encouraged him to see it differently—not simply as a personal achievement, but as proof that independent Filipino designers can reach the international stage without the backing of a major fashion conglomerate.

“We didn't have shortcuts or a big company behind us,” he says.

More than anything, the experience reshaped Joseph's understanding of what it takes to build a brand that stands the test of time.

“I've always loved making clothes,” he says. “Paris made me realize that if I truly want BAGASÁO to endure, I have to give the business the same care I give to the creative process.”