A recent European trip was bookended by meals in the old world elegance of Metronome. And I dare say, our meals here in Manila were better than those away.
Metronome’s new bistro lunch menu is made up of hearty French fare that I admit I prefer over haute cuisine nowadays. Don’t get me wrong, I used to love fine dining. But I’ve found that I am now happier with simpler, less fussy experiences in general.
Miko Calo, Metronome’s head chef, says the same of her midday crowd. Their diners mostly comprise of young professionals from around the neighborhood who enjoy a good meal, but choose not to dilly dally. “Our lunch guests are looking for a dining experience that is more casual, quick, and less complicated,” says Miko.
Every meal starts with a leather pouch of warm, freshly baked bread, and a pat of butter. The brioche is made in-house, with rolls and baguettes from baker friends such as Panaderya Toyo, Manila Bake, and the Daily Knead.
I indulged in the Duck Confit (P1800/set) with crisp lacquered skin and moist, tender meat, while my dining companion chose the classic Steak Frites (P2200/set), hanger steak perfectly seasoned and seared. On the side, a pretty little pile of haricot verts in fresh mayonnaise delicately topped with grated egg, and oh, the cloudlike Potato Purée (P300) is worth every sinful calorie.
A favorite dish on the menu is the Metronome Burger (P1600/set), made with USA prime beef, topped with seared foie gras, caramelized onions and Emmental cheese on a brioche bun, served with Dijon mustard and fries, but of course.
For those who prefer old school, Hunter’s Chicken (P1000/set), or poulet a la chausseur, has quartered hen braised in white wine and cognac with mushrooms, bacon, and tarragon, a fricassée of sorts.
“Hunter’s Chicken was the first poultry dish I ever learned to make," says Calo. “Making this dish made me realize how using good wine and the best cognac can makes this dish. Good ingredients make all the difference.”
For dessert by pastry chef Ginno Hernandez, do have the Profiteroles (P450) drenched in chocolate syrup and topped with slivered almonds, or dark velvety chocolate mousse frosted with cream in an egg-shaped bowl.
And voila, before you know it, it’s time to head back to work. Or not.
Metronome is located at The Grand Midori Makati, Bolanos Street, Legazpi Village, Makati City
You may visit their official website for more information.
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