During today’s Facebook Live session with Dr. Vicki Belo, we quizzed our guest editor on all your pressing questions. To make things easier for you, we’ve condensed it down to these highlights. Keep scrolling and find out the answers to how to make your dark circles go away, how long you should really be leaving soap on your face, and the right moisturizer to be using in this country. Read on!
Why we shouldn’t we be using moisturizer?
"First of all it isn’t my original idea, it’s Dr. Obagi’s. Dr. Obagi’s a very famous doctor who came up with the concept of skin health. In the derma world, for me anyway, my rockstar is Dr. Obagi. He changed dermatology. He said dermatologists should not be doctors of people with sick skin. Like, you don’t go to a dermatologist when you have acne or eczema, that’s not the only time you go. You go to a dermatologist so you will look young and healthy for the rest of your life, so it’s more about prevention. And it’s caught on, now you go to dermatologists to avoid wrinkles, have good skin, small pores. It’s not anymore like before.
"Now his thing is, he really hates moisturizer. It’s been a campaign of his for the last forty years, that moisturizer is the worst thing you can do to your face—it’s in his book, it explains very well why it’s problematic.
"Moisturizers are anti-healthy skin because if you look at the commercials, especially in the U.S. because they're very strict with how they word things, it will always say: This moisturizer will make your skin feel younger, smoother, etc. Notice the word feel. It will never say it will make your skin younger. If it's a moisturizer with peptides, then pwede na rin. But it's just a cosmetic thing, it's not a medicine that will make your skin better."
What’s the difference between moisturizing and hydration?
"The difference between moisturizing and hydration is: moisturizing is more oil-based, hydrating is more water-based. In our country, a serum is much better to put on your face because it doesn’t clog the pores.
"There are many ways to hydrate, there’s from the inside and from the outside. So to hydrate you can use a serum-type thing that doesn’t feel oily at all. But, of course, hydration also means drinking a lot of water. I would really suggest vegetables, vegetable juices with fiber, because it really cleans out your system. Lubricating is more oil-based. Oil is cheaper, so usually when you get a hydrating cream it’s a little on the expensive side because it’s hard to mix that and keep it good."
How do I exfoliate my skin?
"You can either do it physically or with chemicals. If you have oily skin you can use a polish or a Clarisonic brush. But you have to make sure you clean the brush, because sometimes when you clean it and there’s a smell that means there’s still bacteria. Then you use vinegar on it.
"If you don’t want to use a physical way to slough off your dead skin cells, then you can do a chemical one. The natural way would be something like alpha hydroxy acid, it’s made up of sugar and it breaks the bonds between the skin cells.
"It’s not a toner, by the way, when you use alpha hydroxy acids. It’s not putting it on cotton and cleaning [your face]. It’s patting it in. There’s also papaya soap, which we have a new one of, and then there’s kojic soap, these are things that will slough off your skin. The thing is you have to leave it on for two minutes. It’s not a, you put it on and you wash it off, because it has to kind of ‘work.’ So you have to leave it for a while so you can sing Happy Birthday twice and then you rinse it off. Then at night, you can use retinoic acid. You can just go to the drugstore, I’m sure there are generic ones. Usually it’s a cream."
How do we make our skin cells healthy?
"Well, if they're not really healthy then you can make them healthy by exercising them, the skin cells individually. And the best way to do that is to use a retinoic acid. So for Dr. Obagi he has something called Retamax, which is retinol at 1%. Retinol is supposed to be milder, so you don’t get red too much, but you have to make sure that the retinol is medical grade.
"It makes it turn over faster, increases the blood circulation. By increasing the blood circulation you feed more nutrients to the skin and you have more collagen and elastin. For me retinoic acid is the best thing because I’ve been using it since I was eleven."
What’s the proper way to go shopping for skincare products?
"You know, you really need to try it in our country. That’s the bad thing, if you try it abroad it will really work. I have been fooled so many times. Even makeup, I buy makeup there and it’s so perfect. But the moment I wear it here, I break out because it’s too moisturizing. Makeup has moisturizer sometimes and it can clog the pores. Try to get a sample, use it here, and if it works for you here that’s when you buy the real size."
What’s causing the breakouts along my jawline?
"If the breakout is only here [along the jawline] then most probably it’s moisturizer or shampoo or conditioner. A lot of people like their hair so soft, or when you wash your face a lot of people they soap all over up to here [under their jawline] but when they splash water its only here [on the face] they don’t really splash here [under the jawline] so they get acne."
Is there any other way to get rid of warts aside from cautery?
"You know I wouldn’t trust any other way except cautery. I know there are some chemicals that you can buy from the drugstore and then you can apply supposedly but that can burn your skin. You know viruses cause warts, so it’s really transmissible. And if you don’t kill it, it’ll come back with a vengeance. The best way is either with laser (hurts less, has less marks) or cautery."
Is there a cure for the dark circles under my eyes?
"The most common reason why you get dark eyes is from rubbing your eyes a lot. Filipinos have this dark pigment in their skin (melanin) and the way to stimulate it is rubbing. Same thing with the armpits. Some people get a bimpo and think, ‘Hey, I’ll rub my black armpits away’ and then they get darker.
"Yes, there is a cure finally. There’s something that’s 95% effective. It’s the Angel Whitening System and it works great on dark circles once a month for four months. It works great on the armpits and singit, too. Anything that has friction, you notice?"